Let your imagination run wild with Coroplast creations!

Coroplast is a modern day invention that is basic in concept. It is quite simply defined as plastic cardboard. This “plastic cardboard”

The extra advantage of Coroplast is it’s waterproof, longer lasting, more heat resistant, more impact resistant, stronger, can be heat formed, tear resistant, and can be used for things that would not be practical for cardboard.

It's hard to say when Coroplast was first used for something besides storage or packing. Coroplast showed up on the American scene in 1975, and we all know what a "boom" it has been for the temporary sign industry.

Like many other things, people have found a lot of different uses for this durable plastic. It's hard to say with any authority, but politicians may be the group who have benefited the most! After any election, it's hard to say who really benefits, as these signs sweem to just sort of linger on.

Most of us have seen Coroplast used for the typical “For Sale,” “Garage Sale,” or the many political campaign signs that litter our cities and towns during any election.

Other than signs, the next most likely use would be for small to medium size storage boxes. So you might not make the connection of Coroplast and bikes at first glance.

Coroplast and the typical bicycle might not have much of a connection at all. Where it can be seen in use the most would be with recumbent bikes as a windfairing or a tailbox used to store those things important on a ride. Sort of like the trunk of a car.

In those states where riding is usually limited in colder climates, Streetliner fairings were developed to protect the rider from the cold, slush from melting snow, cold air, rain and other elements. Since these fairings were inexpensive to make, they became popular to many who were willing to make the effort and take the time build one.

Because a Streetliner fairing increases the aerodynamics of a recumbent, it also became very popular for racing. As far back as the 1930’s two prominent bicycle racers used fairings in their attempt to break the one hour record for speed and distance. While some sort of lightweight plastic product was used, it is fairly certain it was not Coroplast.

The fastest speed using a Coroplast fairing is unknown for certain. While many speed records are maintained, there are no known records specific to Coroplast fairings. Personal experience has been 49 MPH on a steep down hill descent, and 35 MPH in a Velodrome for a top speed, and a sustained speed of just over 29 MPH.

Anyone reading this aware of faster speeds that can be confirmed feel free to let me know by sending an email using the form at the bottom of this page.

Coroplast can take a lot of punishment from crashes and definitely helps to protect the rider from injury and “road rash!” So it can protect from the weather and offer bodily injury protection.

The wear and tear from road vibration is minimal. Cleaning is easy with any detergent or even solvent based cleaners. I have used acetone, citrus based cleaners, thinner, soaps, Simple Green, and none have been able to damage the surface.

Holes are fairly simple to patch with vinyl plastic and hot glue, or even careful melting of another piece of Coroplast over the hole. I have used a Dremel to sand down the spines of a piece sliced in half so it is smooth.

Then with the thin flat soldering tip from the soldering iron kit, carefully melt the two pieces together. Done with care, it can form a fused bond that is not likely to come apart.

There are methods that are more complicated involving much more cost for equipment that can do the same thing. Someone at home would never make such an investment. Hot glues work up to a point. Silicone glues can also work.

The greatest challenge with a glued Coroplast surface is since it is a polycarbonate there is an oil residue. The surface is also very non-porous, so getting the two surfaces to bond is very difficult.

In extreme cold, or say below 40 degrees F. the glued surfaces become brittle and break apart. In hot temperatures of 100 degrees F. or higher the glue tends to soften and separate.

Even cleaning the surfaces with acetone, or roughing up the surface with coarse grit sandpaper only gives slight improvement. The only methods that seem to hold are welding, Zip-ties, or the Aluminum section bolts I use.

There are basically two thicknesses of Coroplast that are widely used for fairings, tailboxes and wheel discs. The thinner 2mm Coroplast is much better for wheel discs and areas where bending is more important than strength or stiffness. The 4mm is better for flat surfaces needing stiffness and mild bending or curves.

There are always signs around that can be picked up after sales that are being advertised are over, or the many other things that Coroplast signs are used for. Get your glue gun, heat gun, soldering iron and the like to practice on these, before investing in a big 4’ X 8’ sheet. That way you have an idea of what to expect as you go about creating your Coroplast “thing-a-majig!”

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